Greek Odyssey2012 Part Three: Island of Sifnos

Friday, 8 June 2012

We arrived in Sifnos around 7:30 pm, having started out this morning from Ermioni at 11:20 am. Some of that time was spent in Pireaus between ferries. It was long, but pleasant enough day, starting out with a ride to the ferry from Julie of Philoxenia Ganossis. We chatted with her for a bit while waiting for breakfast. A very nice way to end our stay there.

Speedrunner4, the fast speed ferry from Piraeus is a huge one that can hold a number of cars and up to six buses as well as innumerable people. There are refreshments available on board, and the seating is airplane style but with more space to sit and/or walk around. Not a bad way to travel.

It made one stop on the way to Sifnos, at the island of Serifos, with one more stop, Milos, after Sifnos. When we offboarded, we were shocked at the number of people not only getting off but all of those waiting to greet them–it was a huge crowd with people, suitcases, luggages, scooters, and taxi drivers everywhere.

We had to walk about 200 meters through the vehicle and foot traffic to Aegean Thesaurus’ office to get directions to Eugenia Studios, our home for the next six days. As we strode along, there was a lot of commotion from almost every establishment were it seemed like the entire population was watching the Greece vs Poland soccer match. So where was this quiet village we had read so much about?

When we reached the AT office, we learned Eugenia was about 300 meters away, a little bit uphill, “not bad.” And there were no taxis available as they were taken up with ferry passengers they’d picked up. But, they repeated, it was not a bad walk, just a little bit uphill. Tirned out it might be considered “a little bit” by the natives, but it was a BIG bit to me–a long, winding, uphill street with about a 15 percent slope at the end!

Looking around, it’s clear that hills abound here–the harbor is surrounded be steep, approx 1,000 to 1,500 ft or so headlands, and all streets lead up to and through them.

We had left half our luggage at the AT office, so after checking in at and catching our breaths we headed back downhill to pick it up along with something to eat. We found a bakery that offered savory pies, and we bought a spanakopita (spinach pie), and one stuffed with traditional sausage (very smoky flavored, goes great with mustard) to bring back, along with some basic groceries from a mini-mart. Then back u-u-u-p-p-p the hill.

We enjoyed our humble repast on our balcony overlooking the harbor, along with the lovely bottle of white wine we had been gifted on the cruise (over ice, a cardinal sin for sure but a necessity given the evening heat that was softened a bit by a balmy but quite strong wind).

Refreshed, we called it a day

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